Time Out - Eating and Drinking Guide

" The reviews in this Guide are based on the experiences of Time Out restaurant reviewers. Restaurants, bars and cafes are visited anonymously, and Time Out pays the bill.

The star system means you can identify top performers at a glance A red star against a restaurant means it is, of its type, very good indeed. We've also introduced green stars so that London's more budget-conscious eateries can be indentified more easily. The cut-off point for qualifying for a green star is an average of £10 (on a three-course meal or its equivalent)."

Eating and Drinking Guide 2004

Andy's

With the geraniums in bloom, the smell of barbecued meat in the air and a glass of Kourtakis retsina in hand, we couldn't have picked a better summer evening to relax Greek-style in Andy's small whitewashed courtyard.

Established in 1968, Andy's is one of Camden's more traditional tavernas. We were favourably impressed by the food, especially the vegetarian options, as so many Greek-Cypriot menus are meat-heavy.

The vegetarian platter - permeated by delicious fresh herbs - featured a generous array of dishes that included spanakópitta and chubby slices of fried halloumi that were fit for the goddesses. A main of fish stifádo was excellent.

Portions are more generous than at neighbouring Daphne, but we found room to enjoy the splendid dessert platter of fresh fruit, mini Greek pastries and ice-cream. Service was welcoming and efficient, and the very reasonable bill of £57 included a bottle of fine (red) Tsantali Cava.

2004

Eating and Drinking Guide 2000

Andy's

Of the surviving Greek Tavernas that cluster mostly east of Camden High Street, Andy's is clearly the front-runner, judging from week-night crowds. It's easy to see why.

There's a lightness of touch, discernible basic ingredients, and an enticingly homemade savour to Cypriot mainstays. Perhaps such standards are attributable to the owner's 15-year stint as a chef in Athens and on the island of Eyina.

Among several starters, only pastourmá (garlicky, pink wieners rather than the rough-hewn sausages we'd expected), and a bland vinaigrette version of artichoke hearts with broad beans disappointed. Three huge dolmádes were patently fresh and own-made; and the succulent, green filling of the spanakópitta (fat and oddly tubular), threatened to burst through the most sheer of crusts.

Mains were even better: three vegetarian papoutsákia (stuffed aubergines) arrived cooked to perfection, redolent of onion, coriander and other subtle flavours; kalamári, cut in thin slivers, went down a treat.

The wine list is mostly Cypriot, though there are a few Greek stars, including a well-priced Cambas Nemea (£10.50). Service is affable, even jocular. During warmer months, the little garden at the back is in demand.

2000